Are we actually looking for culture and “new experiences” when we book a flight in the middle of January, or are we just fleeing the fact that it is currently colder in our kitchens than it is in a Finnish sauna’s cooling room? It is a question that feels like a betrayal of the national pride we take in our coastline and our light, but it’s one that needs to be asked. If we were honest with the people sitting next to us in the boarding lounge at Terminal 1, how many of us would admit that we aren’t traveling toward a destination as much as we are traveling away from a damp patch on the bedroom ceiling?
Take a Sunday in late January in Paranhos, Porto. Outside, the granite of the city is soaked through, a deep, bruised grey that seems to leak into the very air. Inside his flat, Rui is wearing a thick outdoor fleece, a wool scarf, and those fingerless gloves that make him look like a character from a Dickens novel rather than a software architect.
He is typing at the kitchen table. Every few minutes, he pauses to wrap his hands around a mug of tea that has already lost its steam. His breath isn’t quite visible, but it feels like it should be. The air in the room is heavy,